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The modern suit is the result of a series of developments that the classic 19th century men’s suit went through. 
The suits we find today are a combination of technique, cultural aspects and different aesthetic matters that make them a very advanced form of dressing.
Suits have undergone some rapid development specially over the last decade, leaving many a perplexed men unaware of the different types of fits out there for the everyday suit, and we are here to help.
The fit of a suit is of supreme importance, and its not too hard to figure out that different body types demand different fits. 
We've put together the three basic fits for a suit and the body types it flatters to make things much easier for every gentleman out there.


THE AMERICAN CUT:
A style that rose to popularity in 1920’s by Ivy Leaguers, the american suit cut has evolved from being baggy to being cut to the shape of the body. If your the kind of man that spends hours together in a suit, this cut is the most rewarding due to its boxy fit that provides that 'oh so comfortable' ease.



The features of the American suit cut are as follows:
  • Commonly known as the sack suit, this cut features a boxy fit 
  • Flap pockets
  • wide lapels that can  be either notch or peak.
  • Single vent at the back centre.
  • Seen in either two or three button style
  • Wider cut in the seat of the pants and the shoulders (to accomodate a more typical American body)



What the sack suit lacks in style, it makes up for in possessing magical qualities of hiding that extra holiday weight that your tummy refuses to bid adieu to. 
The smaller padding and straighter cut makes this suit great for middle aged and wider men, creating a uniform body line. 


THE BRITISH CUT:
This distinct style rose to popularity during the mid 19th century is considered more of a traditional style. Because it originated in the practices of true bespoke tailoring, traditional British suiting has a far more ‘fitted’ look than the mass-produced styles that became emblematic of American style. Cut closer to the body, well tailored with little or no shoulder padding, this becomes the  'in between' style - neither boxy nor slim.




These are a few of the distinct characteristics of the traditional british cut:

  • Little or no shoulder padding.
  • Nipped waist and fitted chest, creates a silhouette that shows of a slim waist.
  • A medium gorge.  The gorge is the point in the suit where the lapels cross when a suit is done up.  A low gorge tends to make one look shorter and draw attention to the tie, while a high gorge brings attention up to your face, making the medium gorge the perfect sweet spot.
  • Dual vents
  • Thin lapels that are either notch or peak.
  • A British suit may also have working cuff buttons, called a "Doctor's Cuff", or ''workable sleeves''.



This cut has the ability to create an illusion of lengthening and slimming the body down . The thin lapels, small shoulder, and overall tighter cut of the suit tends to minimize one's width and accentuate one's height making the dream of 'Tall, Dark and Handsome' only a tan away. It's a style that works comfortably for all body shapes but exceptionally for the wider gentlemen.
  


THE ITALIAN CUT:
The story goes that Italian culture valued aesthetics over all else, and thus sought the “cleanest” suit style possible.The typical corporate "power" suit is an Italian suit.  Because of the wide shoulder and small waists, it tends to create a well defined "triangle" on the body, which is associated with power. Originating in the mid 90's, this style has evolved incredibly, making the silhouette sleek, modern and stylish.
Opposite of British style suits, Italians prefer to use lighter cloths, higher gorge lines, and less overall padding.


Highlighting features of the Italian cut suit(otherwise known as 'continental style') :
  • Highly tailored silhouette.
  • Slim tight fitting chest and highly tapered waist.
  • Vents would have broken the suit’s lines, so most Italian fit jackets are ventless.
  • Thick notch lapels.
  • Shorter jacket length and raised armholes.
  • tapered trousers


This kind of suiting style is highly recommendable for tall,flat belly men. If you have a drool worthy body, there is no better way to show it off than in an Italian fit suit.


These styles have been around for decades, and have evolved with the times. However, these categories are not written in stone, due to the many variations to these styles, the differences have been blurred out. 


Comments

  1. Great work done on the article. These tips will indeed be helpful to choose the right tailored suits. Will love to read more articles from you.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Wonderful to hear from you, thank you very much. :)

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